Those Whitewashed Walls By Matthew J. Milliner

Nicosia, Cyprus touts itself—mournfully but with a dash of pride—as the world’s “last divided capital.” The southern side, which is muscularly Orthodox when not pedantically secular, boasts dozens of lovingly tended churches and several active, impressive mosques. On a research trip this month to Cyprus, I was surprised to discover that crossing the south-north Nicosia boundary was far from the elaborate procedure my outdated guidebook warned it would be. Greek and Turkish shoppers leisurely strolled past the checkpoint, often without even flashing documents. The DMZ now features potted plants and murals of happy children on the walls.

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